Bethlehem's Christmas Tree Illuminates for the First Time After the Start of the Conflict
For two years during the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations for Christmas were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is where Christians believe Jesus was born.
However, following the recent ceasefire, this sacred city decided that now celebrations would return, as symbolised by the illumination of its customary, large holiday tree before the historic Nativity Church.
"We have endured a bad two years of silence; no holiday, no jobs, no income," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade was down to nothing."
He accepts that the decision of resuming celebrations faced some debate, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza – including for those in its tiny Christian community, who often have family ties to Bethlehem.
"Some may say it is unsuitable and others say it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I believed that this was the correct action to take since Christmas should never be halted or abandoned. This is a beacon of hope for us."
A Spark of Celebration Returns
Residents – both Christians and Muslims – take photographs in front of the tree decorated with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of foreign tourists.
Vibrant lights now adorn the streets with signs promoting holiday markets and children's parties.
"We're very happy to have the tree, first thing, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its true spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where everything began, so this is where we can convey a message globally of what really Christmas should be about. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will deliver a positive message for the whole world."
Economic Prospects and Difficulties
Nearby towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees in the coming days. Local hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for two years – have an influx of bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.
One tourist from Russia, named Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view everyone needs to come at least once during their lifetime," she says.
"I hope a lot of people will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The sole aspect that's good is that there are no long lines – one can visit and experience more. When I came before it was necessary to wait in line for hours minimum."
For now, the gift shops dotted around the city have little business, and outside the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the 4th century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the conflict, it was often crammed with people.
"This is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no livelihood," laments a guide named Hamza. "We aspire to see individuals coming back as in the past: from Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, Latin American and all over. We start with the Christmas tree lighting, and we'll wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Following the deadly attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel during October 2023 which triggered the war, many thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank region have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.
Meanwhile, public servants have received only partial salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers areas within the West Bank. The Authority relies on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is withholding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.
Israeli officials state it is holding these funds because the Authority provides payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The PA – which has been under international pressure to make reforms – claims it has recently changed its social welfare system.
An Austere Holiday
The bleak economic situation means that for numerous Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public festivities in addition to religious services, it will constitute a subdued holiday season.
On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from several shops.
"We are getting ready for Christmas following one of our hardest periods as a Palestinian people and as Christians," states Alaa Salameh, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery which has seen its income plummet. He says that recently numerous families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional snack.
"The faithful will attempt to celebrate but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festival or a show or similar, they lack the funds to expend for this celebration."
Prayers for Calm and Recovery
In the cave-like grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a resident accompanies a small Indian tour group, bending down near a silver star which marks the spot where tradition states that Jesus was born and igniting a candle close by.
Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, Bethlehem residents say they are hoping for peace – and hoping for tourists to come back to the location where it is believed where Christmas started.